Front brake disks/rotors - opinions needed...

[pan]

My Busa needs new front rotors. Given I've had brake fade on track days, I'm thinking of going for wave rotors because I've been told they dissipate heat better and brake fluid doesn't boil as quick, therefore less brake fade...

I've also heard cast iron rotors are good because they grip better, and someone said they are even better for fade because... well, they didn't say why!

So I've done a bit of research on eBay and come across Braketech, Galfer and others.

Any suggestions on what I should use?

[dungbeetle]

ive got galfer waves and they are shit...shit shit shit i tell ya...dont do it!!!
dunno about the others

[lilninja]

have you tried changing your fluid? if so did you go to a higher dot maybe 6 or even 8 that shit wont boil till your disks are glowing red! and no offence pan but you aint braking that hard!

[pan]

Using DOT 5.1

Not braking hard all the time but keep in mind I was trying to make my brakes last longer a couple of weeks back. The time before the last at EC my brakes were gooooone by about 2pm and I went to C group.

Also, 600's weigh about 100kgs less. It may not look like the Busa is braking hard, but to get 250kgs of bike to slow from 280km/h down the straight to 160km/h for turn 1, believe me, I'm braking hard!

Others have suggested changing the master cylinder, etc.... I gotta change disks because my disks are worn, so I'm just looking for advice about which rotors for now.

:ayyy:

[pan]

ive got galfer waves and they are shit...shit shit shit i tell ya...dont do it!!!
dunno about the others


Dungy, everyone seems to love the Galfers!?!?!
Did you get matching pads? Apparently they are crap if the pads are wrong

[Chaser]

Using DOT 5.1

Also, 600's weigh about 100kgs less. It may not look like the Busa is braking hard, but to get 250kgs of bike to slow from 280km/h down the straight to 160km/h for turn 1, believe me, I'm braking hard!

:ayyy:

I would have thought leaning more and gearing down to 5th would be more than adequate for turn 1. Why would you attempt to brake from that speed? Is this where I am going wrong?

[pan]

I would have thought leaning more and gearing down to 5th would be more than adequate for turn 1. Why would you attempt to brake from that speed? Is this where I am going wrong?

275 or so is red lining in 4th. Even when I come off throttle by the first white marker, I still need heaps of brakes to slow down enough...

I try to rub off speed with brakes at first white marker, then tip in at third or just after (I think)... :confused1:



I really gotta do me a Superbike School one day...

[lilninja]

well ive never had galfers So I cant comment on there ability but a mate of mine has them on his TLR and he doesnt like them! plus they chew through pads supposedly because of all the edges on them!

[Turtle]

Galfers ROCK !!!!!!!!! Dungy's full of Crap......:lmao:

[Chaser]

Have you tried braided lines yet? Try the 2 full lines, not the 1 line into 2.

[pan]

Have you tried braided lines yet? Try the 2 full lines, not the 1 line into 2.

Got them. I have the 1 line because I was told by several people when getting quotes that since it's a hydralic system it doesn't make a difference. It would've made sense for them to tell me 2 lines are better and make more money from me, but they all suggested 1.

Braided lines made my brakes last until about 2 or 3pm. Before they would be spongy by midday! :)

[pan]

Galfers ROCK !!!!!!!!! Dungy's full of Crap......:lmao:


Did you eBay them? Where did you find yours?

[DanOz]

In the next few days I'm gonna put my Discacciati racing disks on my triple. Discacciati does also the discs for the Hayabusa
http://www.carpimoto.it/content/prod/l_IT/s_1_Home/br_5_Suzuki/bi_242_GSX_R_1300_Hayabusa/sp_1/pr_28420_Disco_Freno_Discacciati_Light_FDR508L_1_d isco_dim_320x69_mm.htm
2 disks --> 500 Euros + shipment.

I'll be able to tell you how they go in a few days.... :)

The original Wave design is from "Braking"; here is the Busa bersion:
http://www.carpimoto.it/content/prod/l_IT/s_1_Home/br_5_Suzuki/bi_242_GSX_R_1300_Hayabusa/sp_1/pr_3278_disco_freno_Braking_Wave_STX20D_1_disco_di m_320x69_mm.htm
200 Euros per rotor --> 400 Euros + shipment.
Braking does also the direct replacement of the original (no wave design) at 205 Euros each

http://www.carpimoto.it/content/prod/l_IT/s_1_Home/br_5_Suzuki/bi_242_GSX_R_1300_Hayabusa/sp_1/pr_1152_disco_freno_Braking_STX20_1_disco_dim_320x 69_mm.htm
In any case it's gonna be quite a bit of money :BangHead: :BangHead:
Ciao

[pan]

D'oh! I was worried they'd not be cheap. I have to keep my eyes open for specials or used ones too...

[holdontight]

Ha PAN you mite be spzed by how much beter your brakes are with just new std type rotors if you old ones are badly worn. worn rotors tend to heat up a lot quicker & get a lot hoter than good(new) ons which will put more heat through the whole system. May be all thats needed to fix your fade problem as you have already changed to beter fluid.

[Yarnie]

Go the Braking Wave discs and a good set of HH pads and she'll stop like shit to a blanket.

[dungbeetle]

Dungy, everyone seems to love the Galfers!?!?!
Did you get matching pads? Apparently they are crap if the pads are wrong


yeh i got the matching pads. they are a few years old now and have done fuk all kms but on the tlr they are crap. im gonna keep the rotors but put a set of ebc hh pads in there next and see if they are any better. i also have a radial master cylinder that i have to get around to puting on.

[dungbeetle]

Also, 600's weigh about 100kgs less. It may not look like the Busa is braking hard, but to get 250kgs of bike to slow from 280km/h down the straight to 160km/h for turn 1, believe me, I'm braking hard!



:ayyy:


you should be doin over 200kph thru turn 1:p

[Falco]

Pan, Vesrah brake pads (http://www.vesrah.com/) are the shit, the difference in stopping power is like night and day.
However, the heart n' soul of effective braking would have to be the master cylinder, a mod worth doing for your fat arsed girl. ;)
As far as rotors go im sure that the manufactures got it right when they designed the Busa, so take your time when deciding to buy pretty bits for the brake department.

[zRoYz]

Pan, Vesrah brake pads (http://www.vesrah.com/) are the shit, the difference in stopping power is like night and day.
However, the heart n' soul of effective braking would have to be the master cylinder, a mod worth doing for your fat arsed girl. ;)
As far as rotors go im sure that the manufactures got it right when they designed the Busa, so take your time when deciding to buy pretty bits for the brake department.

What you been reading books or someone tell you :lmao:

100% correct the busa has a problem with brakes which really only has been addressed when they upgraded to radial brakes.

Pan likes bling things & the major problem with his brakes is he is using a after market lever with no adjustment at lever block. These after market levers don't take up master cylinder built in travel before they start making pressure which is why Pans brakes are not bad before he puts major heat in them. His fluid doesn't boil all brake system pressure changes with heat & he just can't adjust his & he has been told this.

Point two I didn't see major grooving on Pans rotors (I didn't really look to hard) which on rotors is the only reason braking will fade due to rotor. If rotor is flat spotted or warped your front will shutter & the only other reason to replace is if there under size.

So in a nut shell if I was Pan this is what I would do or stop complaining about brakes.
1. Sell the busa & buy a real bike that stops :lmao:
2. Inspect rotor condition for grooves on surface & thickness of rotor (in manual there is spec)
3. If rotors under size or badly grooved replace them with anything round & shiny that is marked FITS BUSA, if ok leave them alone.
4. Adjustable lever that has adjustment on lever block will help, BUT replace master cylinder with something known to work would be my priority.

I have a RC51 master cylinder that has a 19mm piston you can try before spending money, I can also borrow a 954 master cylinder which I think is a 16mm piston. So this way we see who is right without spending money on parts you might not need. I don't know standard master cylinder pistion size because I don't look up Suzuki cheese parts.

[clarkey]

Dungy, everyone seems to love the Galfers!?!?!
Did you get matching pads? Apparently they are crap if the pads are wrong

Pan -Super bike supply are very well priced for Galfers,he has a sale on for an cbr10004,05 set for 450,really good service and quick -heaps of other parts aswell www.superbikesupply.com.au

[pan]

The disks on my Busa are worn too far. Recommended minimum thickness is 4.5mm. I'm down to 4.1

I do have adjustable levers and it was only last time out at EC that I used my bling ones. Even with the adjustable OEM's I was hitting the bar with the brake lever toward the end of the day.

Thanks for the feedback team. I think I'll talk to zRoyz some more about master cylinders...

:ayyy:

[lilninja]

if your disks are worn too far I would suggest replacing them aswel as they have a minimum thickness for a reason! the piston on a brake caliper can only extend so far, once they are too thin they start to warp and this causes you to have to double pump your brakes to get them to grip!